Travel in China
The restored 'east of the old gate' quarter - black-brick lanes, teahouses and opera beneath the Ming wall.
Laomendong (Old East Gate) is the historic quarter immediately east of Zhonghua Gate, the largest surviving Ming city gate in Nanjing. The name literally means 'east of the old gate' - this was the commercial and residential heart of the old city from the Ming through the Republican periods.
The quarter's black-brick lanes have been restored with their original facades - teahouses, bookshops, opera stages, craft workshops and duck shops. The architecture combines Ming, Qing and Republican styles, reflecting the layered history of the district. Lantern-lit evenings beneath the city wall are the area's most atmospheric hours.
Laomendong is Nanjing's most successful urban conservation project - the shops and restaurants are genuinely good rather than tourist-trap quality. Try the duck blood soup, the sweet osmanthus cakes, and the hand-pulled noodles in between browsing the craft shops and galleries.
Highlights
The Black-Brick Lanes
Restored Ming and Qing facades in the quarter beneath Zhonghua Gate.
The Lantern Nights
Red lanterns lighting the lanes after dusk beneath the city wall.
The Teahouse Opera
Traditional Kunqu opera performances in a courtyard theatre.
The Zhonghua Gate
The massive Ming city gate immediately west of the quarter.
The Craft Workshops
Artisans making Yunjin brocade, lanterns and clay figurines.
The Duck Shops
Nanjing's famous salted duck sold from heritage storefronts.
Photo Gallery
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